Manaslu Expedition

Manaslu expedition

Our Manaslu expedition in Nepal – ultimate climb of 8000 meter peak in the Himalayas.

The Manaslu expedition is a complete climbing adventure of a 8000 meter peak in the fabulous Himalaya. It is the 8th highest mountain and is located in the restricted trekking region of Manaslu in mid west Nepal which unfolds the diverse landscape and challenging climbing experience. Manaslu Peak (8163 m) towers steeply above its surrounding peaks and is the most spectacular, dominant mountain when viewed from afar. The Manaslu expedition is much more technical and challenging than Cho Oyu and Sishapangma, so each climber has to have excellent physical and mental preparation as well as a high level of climbing proficiency and altitude adeptness at higher elevation. Mountain Monarch offers a complete service to maximize the success of achieving the summit of Manaslu.

Manaslu Expedition Route

We follow the Burigandaki valley trail up to Samagoan and our first acclimatization day is scheduled at 4600 metres before we head up to Manaslu Base Camp at 4750 m. On the Manaslu Glacier, we carefully follow the bamboo marker wands and use fixed ropes to cross the serious crevasses and dangerous sections. We make our Manaslu Expedition Camp 1 at 5700 metes at the bottom of the North Peak right above the glacier on a protected area.

Expedition Camp 2 is located at the safe section of the climb on a relatively flat area at 6400 metres although while at this campsite there can be a lot of snow accumulation. The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is one of the shortest days and only takes around 3 hours. We make our Camp 3 at the elevation of 6800 meters just below the col to avoid the very strong winds so we ensure that all our tents are anchored properly. The route continues up the remaining glacier climbing steep sections of snow and ice with safety towards Camp 4 at 7400 meter which is the last camp on our Manaslu expedition. Finally we have to traverse past sadly exposed remnants of former expeditions – smashed tents and dumped garbage – to reach the Summit Camp – a tiring day involving a 6 to 8 hours climb.

Manaslu climbing expedition Summit Day starts in the late evening and the route heads immediately up a moderate slope from the summit camp before arriving at the first of the summit tables. The route climbs three separate levels before arriving at the final pyramid slope. From here another short steep slope below the immediate summit is climbed until we reach the pre – summit. The ultimate summit is reached by an exposed technical traverse for around a distance of 70 meters – this section needs to have fixed ropes in place. The climb from Camp 4 to the fantastic summit takes between 6-9 hours with 3-5 hours for the descent to Camp 4. Next day we return to Base Camp to end our successful attempt to climb magnificent Manaslu. We use trusted climbing tents on while on our challenging expedition climb to Manaslu Peak.

Outline Itinerary

  • Day 01:
    Arrive Kathmandu to start the Manaslu Expedition
  • Day 02:
    Cultural tour and Manaslu expedition preparation
  • Day 03:
    Drive to Arughat (570m) to start the Manaslu climbing expedition
  • Day 04:
    Soti Khola (730m) / Korsani Khola
  • Day 05:
    Machha Khola (930m)
  • Day 06:
    Jagat (1370m)
  • Day 07:
    Philim (1570m)
  • Day 08:
    Deng (1540m)
  • Day 09:
    Ghap (2165m)
  • Day 10:
    Lho (3180m)
  • Day 11:
    Sama Goan (Ro) 3525m
  • Day 12:
    Rest day Sama Gaon
  • Day 13:
    Trek Manaslu BC (4750 m)
  • Day 14-41:
    Manaslu expedition climbing period
  • Day 42:
    Trek do Sama Goan after the Manaslu expedition
  • Day 43-47:
    Trek back to Arughat
  • Day 48:
    Drive back to Kathmandu
  • Day 49:
    Free day in Kathmandu
  • Day 50:
    Manaslu Expedition ends / airport transfer for the flight back home

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