Mera and Island Peak climbing
Trip Price
US$ 4,050 per person
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Trip Facts

Trip Duration: 28 Days
Trip Grading: Strenuous Plus
Max Altitude: 6476 m.
Best Time: April - May, Oct - Nov
Trip Mode: Camping + Tea House
Mera and Island peak climbing

Itinerary Mera and Island peak with Amphu laptcha

Detail day to day Itinerary of Mera and Island peak climbing with Amphu Laptcha pass trip in the Everest region.

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu / Welcome dinner

  • Arrival in Kathmandu.
  • Mountain monarch representative welcome you at the airport and transfer to the hotel.
  • Trek briefing and pack distribution,
  • Dinner with cultural show at Traditional Nepali Restaurant

Day 02: Trip preparation: cultural tour and check / set gears

  • Half day Sightseeing Tour Hindu and Buddhist Shrines
  • Trek preparation and last minute shopping for necessary gear

Day 03: Fly to Lukla to start the expedition trip to Mera Island peak via Amphu Laptsa pass

  • Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m/9,318ft).
  • Set off early morning 35 minute scenic mountain flight by a small aircraft, we land in Lukla airport.
  •  After lunch 2 hours climb up hill and level walk to the camp village Paiya for the over night stay at tented camp.

Day 04-06: Cross the Pangum la with first view of Mera peak

  •  Enjoy the first breakfast prepared by trekking chef.
  • We leave the main trail after 45 minutes and head towards North traversing hill terraces.
  • Morning we go over the Pangom (3200m) pass and stop for Lunch at Sibuche Village.
  • After lunch hike would be challenging steep downhill to the bridge and ascend to the camp Narging a summer pastureland.
  • Today we feel being on altitude, dramatic views of snow capped mountains and green valleys, true sense of adventure.

Day 07-09: Trekking thought the lust Redodendro forest to Tangnang via Narging and Pacha Pokhari

  • Today we walk above the tree line on grassy track and less vegetation mainly through Natural plantations of Herbal hubs.
  • Cool and mild temperature even in sunny day, passes lakes and fountains indescribable beauties of Natures.
  • Camp next to the river there is regular campsite for the Camping group.
  • A long way descend to the Riverside and follow the Inkhu River up stream to the village Kote a small growing town for trekkers huts.
  • The valley narrows between the flanks of the Kusum Kangaru (6,367m/20,889ft) to the west and the truncated far western peak of Mera (6,225m/20,424ft) to the east.
  • The peak has a magnificent 1800 meters (5,905ft) rock face first climbed by the Japanese in 1985.
  • We visit a Gompa beneath a rock overhang for the blessing of safe and healthy trip.

Day 10-13: Climb Mera peak base camp / climbing training / acclimatization

  • Acclimatization at Tangnag (4350m).
  • Short Hike above the Village path halfway towards Kusumkhangaru base camp and return back to camp for lunch.
  • Afternoon free time for laundry/ self exploration.
  • From Tangnag the path follows the moraine of the Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka.
  • The setting is spectacular with the view dominated by the crest of the Charpati Himal. Trekking time 5-6 hours.
  • Second Acclimatization at Khare.
  • ·We will aid acclimatisation by ascending the moraine above Khare to the start of the Mera Glacier (5,300m/17,389ft).
  • It is demanding climb, as it is quite steep apart from a short flat section approximately halfway to the glacier. Once we have reached the first ridge we will have topnotch views of our route via the Mera la (5,415m/17,766ft) to high camp and the summit.
  • Climbing Clinic: We will take the opportunity to get familiar with climbing equipment; using crampons and ice axe, walking in climbing boots, fixed ropes will be set by our guide so that we can put into practice ascending using a “Jumar” and descending using a “figure-of-8” or belay device.

Day 14: Set Mera high camp at 5800 meter / Panoramic vista of Himalayas

  • Trek through Mera la Pass (5,415m/17,766ft) to Mera Peak High Camp (5,800m/19,029ft).
  • Climbing day to high camp: This morning we will leave camp then crossover and climb to the right of the glacier.
  • Crampons will be required for the climb to reach the plateau of Mera la where we will see the route to High Camp and the summit of Mt. Mera. We climb further for the High Camp where we will rest for the night.
  • It is a steep ascent for around 5-6 hours with wonderful views of five of the world’s highest peaks, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Kanchenjunga. We will camp overnight with spectacular Himalayan backdrop.

Day 15: Summit day / early start to the Mera peak top / Himalayan summit thrill

  • Important day to climb Mera peak summit from high camp
  • Summit day: The climb begins at around 2am so that we can make it during the best part of the day. Crampons, ice axe and ropes are required for the summit approach. We will climb a number of easy slopes before reaching the central summit (6,461m/21,198ft) and from here we will use a fixed rope for the last steep part of the climb. Although ascending we will have the breathtaking sun rise view of Kanchenjunga to the east and the peaks of Makalu and Everest as we climb.
  • At the summit there are fantastic views across the Himalaya; Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyo and of course Everest an opportunity for a great photo shoot. We then make a careful descent back to the Base Camp for overnight halt.
  • Total climbing/trekking time 8-10 hours.

Day 16-18: Climb to Amphu Laptsa base camp through Ongmadingma and Seto PokharI tented camp stay

  • Trek Base Camp to Hinku/Honku Valley (5,220m/17,126ft).
  • We continue into the upper yak pastures of this incredible remote valley.
  • Great view of Chamlang (7,319m/24,013ft) on our left while the Baruntse (7,129m/23,390ft) comes beyond. Overnight in camp.
  • Trek Honku Valley to Seto Pokhari (4,500m/14,764ft).
  • We continue along this isolated trail with the great views of the majestic mountains.
  • Camp overnight by the Lake.
  • Trek Seto Pokhari to Amphu Lapcha (South) Base Camp (5,200m/17,061ft).
  • Amphu Lapcha is one of the challenging high passes in the Khumbu valley. We climb steadily experiencing the wilderness of the Honku Valley. This is one of the outmost trekking regions in Nepal.
  • We see Chamlang (7,319m/24,013ft) with hanging glaciers on its South-West and North-West faces on the right. We camp overnight in Amphu Lapcha Base Camp. Trekking time 6-7 hours.

Day 19: Cross the Amphu Labtsa pass / ascend and descent with fixed rope on glacier and rock

  • Amphu Lapcha pass (5,800m/19,029ft) to Island Peak Base camp (5200m).
  • Today we start our early climb on the steep sections of rock and ice.  Climbing Rope is required for today’s trek. It is better to start the climb before the snow melts. The last sections of the Amphu Lapcha pass winds up through snow shelves. We still have a steep descent to cover on ropes leading down to the moraine. We spend the night at the Amphu Lapcha (North) Base Camp.

Day 20-21: Climb to the Island peak base camp / rest day

  • We set off to the Island peak Base Camp with the trail initially crossing a stream below camp and then proceeding along the left-hand side of the valley, before heading to a higher Imza valley.
  • Continuing on, the main trail comes to a more open area, climbs a moraine where edelweiss grows on a slope – crosses a sandy stretch, weaves among heaps of moraine climbs gradually to the Island peak Base camp.
  • Today you have full leisure day you can have late wake up and breakfast as your body insist.

Day 22: Early start for the Island peak summit / great panoramic views

  • Today’s trip is not only literally the “second high point” of our entire trek but it also has the absolutely high point with unbelievable views from the summit of Island Peak.The long awaited climb starts around 2.00am. The climb takes about 5-6 hours depending upon your pace to reach the summit. On the way to the summit, one can experience the most fantastic sunrise over Mt. Makalu.
  •  The route is technically difficult soon we will reach a point where a narrow side valley cuts off to the left. After about 300m it takes us to the East, climb the right-hand side to gain the lower top, marked with a number of slender cairns and then continue along the ridge scrambling over rocks and reach the crampon point with its flutter of prayer flags.
  • From the summits, a truly incredible panorama is spread around you. Although Everest is of course not in view, the ice cone of Baruntse which from this summit appears higher than Makalu, has stunning beauty. Having really soaked up these incredible views we will return down to Base camp.
  • Average time of summit 8-9 hours.

Day 23-25: Trek down to Lukla via Thyangboche and Namche / stay at teahouse / enjoy the shower

  • From Island Peak Base Camp, we re-cross the Imja Khola on the wooden bridge and continue down to Dingbuche for lunch.
  • After lunch we join on Everest Base camp trail to reach the famous gompa at Tyanboche believed to have been the biggest in the Khumbu region. We stay overnight at Tyangboche.
  • We trek through a steep descent and the final steep climb to Kyenjuma Village then traverses the hillside into Namche Bazaar. It is unofficial capital and trekker’s junction of the Khumbu valley.
  • We precede southward crossing and re-crossing the Dudh Koshi at intervals. We stay overnight in Lukla it is the last night on Mountain

Day 26-27: Fly to Kathmandu / contingency day in case of bad weather for Lukla flight

  • We take the 35 minute flight from Ktm and transfer to hotel.
  • Contingency day in case of bad weather for Lukla flight.

Day 28: End of the Mera and Island peak with Amphu Laptsa pass climbing trip /airport transfer.

  • End of the Mera and Island peak with Amphu Laptsa pass climbing
  • Transfer to the International airport / or other destination.

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