Mera and Island peaks climbing
Exceptional high altitude Himalayan traverse climbing of the Mera and Island peaks with the challenging Amphu Laptsa pass.
Mera and Island are two famous trekking peaks in the Himalayas. Climbing the Mera and Island peaks combined with crossing the high spectacular and challenging Amphu Lapcha pass makes this expedition a very special one. Ultimately the best demanding trekking with trekking peaks climbing experience in Nepal. Mountain Monarch has professionally designed this expedition itinerary to allow every participant to have proper acclimatisation. Resulting the summit of these two trekking peaks over 6000 meter a is achievable goal. Further more the trek through the remote valleys of Hinku and Imja tse in Everest region. Great opportunity not to miss in the Himalayas.
Climb the Mera and Island Peaks
Standing over 6460 metres, spectacular Mera Peak offers a great Himalayan summit thrill. An introductory long high altitude trek to climb in the Himalaya. Island Peak at 6189 metres, though of a lesser height, is a slightly more technically demanding and exposed than the Mera. Thus it allows you to test the climbing skills you have learn from the Mera Peak and Amphu Laptsa crossing. The view from the both of these peaks summit is simply breathtaking. We organise special climbing training course at base camp. Thus to ensures that you are able and confident enough to summit both of these trekking peaks safely. The Amphu Labtsa pass requires some technical climbing ability to cross it safely. To make the descent safe and easy our climbing guides team fix ropes for you. Therefore the abseil on the rocky crest and compact blue glacier ice sections totally safe.
Crossing the Amphu Laptch pass
We take the longer route to Mera peak base camp through the lush forests of rhododendron and pine. While higher up there are the uninhabited alpine areas of the upper Hinku valley. After the Mera Peak summit, we head eastwards exploring the less used route towards Makalu and the wilderness of the Hinku valley. Further more we camp at Seto Pokhari, a sacred lake at over 5000 meters nestling beneath the stunning ramparts of Chamlang, Lhotse and Everest dominating the horizon. Our next challenge is crossing the tough Amphu Labtsa pass at 5700 meters on our way to Island Peak base camp. Undoubtedly the panoramic summit views are absolutely wonderful and will stay in your memory forever.
Finally we trek down to Lukla via Thyangboche monastery. We stay at local tea houses while trekking down from Island Peak to Lukla so you can enjoy the cosy comfort. Enjoy the dining room and sleep in a comfortable bed after many nights spent in tented camps. We expect our participants on this Mera and Island with Amphu Laptsa expedition to have extensive outdoor adventure skills with good trekking and hiking experience. Prior climbing experience is recommended and welcome but not mandatory as we will train you in all necessary climbing skills at base camps.
Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu / Welcome dinner
- Arrival in Kathmandu.
- Mountain monarch representative welcome you at the airport and transfer to the hotel.
- Trek briefing and pack distribution,
- Dinner with cultural show at Traditional Nepali Restaurant
Day 02: Trip preparation: cultural tour and check / set gears
- Half day Sightseeing Tour Hindu and Buddhist Shrines
- Trek preparation and last minute shopping for necessary gear
Day 03: Fly to Lukla to start the expedition trip to Mera Island peak via Amphu Laptsa pass
- Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m/9,318ft).
- Set off early morning 35 minute scenic mountain flight by a small aircraft, we land in Lukla airport.
- After lunch 2 hours climb up hill and level walk to the camp village Paiya for the over night stay at tented camp.
Day 04-06: Cross the Pangum la with first view of Mera peak
- Enjoy the first breakfast prepared by trekking chef.
- We leave the main trail after 45 minutes and head towards North traversing hill terraces.
- Morning we go over the Pangom (3200m) pass and stop for Lunch at Sibuche Village.
- After lunch hike would be challenging steep downhill to the bridge and ascend to the camp Narging a summer pastureland.
- Today we feel being on altitude, dramatic views of snow capped mountains and green valleys, true sense of adventure.
Day 07-09: Trekking thought the lust Redodendro forest to Tangnang via Narging and Pacha Pokhari
- Today we walk above the tree line on grassy track and less vegetation mainly through Natural plantations of Herbal hubs.
- Cool and mild temperature even in sunny day, passes lakes and fountains indescribable beauties of Natures.
- Camp next to the river there is regular campsite for the Camping group.
- A long way descend to the Riverside and follow the Inkhu River up stream to the village Kote a small growing town for trekkers huts.
- The valley narrows between the flanks of the Kusum Kangaru (6,367m/20,889ft) to the west and the truncated far western peak of Mera (6,225m/20,424ft) to the east.
- The peak has a magnificent 1800 meters (5,905ft) rock face first climbed by the Japanese in 1985.
- We visit a Gompa beneath a rock overhang for the blessing of safe and healthy trip.
Day 10-13: Climb Mera peak base camp / climbing training / acclimatization
- Acclimatization at Tangnag (4350m).
- Short Hike above the Village path halfway towards Kusumkhangaru base camp and return back to camp for lunch.
- Afternoon free time for laundry/ self exploration.
- From Tangnag the path follows the moraine of the Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka.
- The setting is spectacular with the view dominated by the crest of the Charpati Himal. Trekking time 5-6 hours.
- Second Acclimatization at Khare.
- ·We will aid acclimatisation by ascending the moraine above Khare to the start of the Mera Glacier (5,300m/17,389ft).
- It is demanding climb, as it is quite steep apart from a short flat section approximately halfway to the glacier. Once we have reached the first ridge we will have topnotch views of our route via the Mera la (5,415m/17,766ft) to high camp and the summit.
- Climbing Clinic: We will take the opportunity to get familiar with climbing equipment; using crampons and ice axe, walking in climbing boots, fixed ropes will be set by our guide so that we can put into practice ascending using a “Jumar” and descending using a “figure-of-8” or belay device.
Day 14: Set Mera high camp at 5800 meter / Panoramic vista of Himalayas
- Trek through Mera la Pass (5,415m/17,766ft) to Mera Peak High Camp (5,800m/19,029ft).
- Climbing day to high camp: This morning we will leave camp then crossover and climb to the right of the glacier.
- Crampons will be required for the climb to reach the plateau of Mera la where we will see the route to High Camp and the summit of Mt. Mera. We climb further for the High Camp where we will rest for the night.
- It is a steep ascent for around 5-6 hours with wonderful views of five of the world’s highest peaks, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Kanchenjunga. We will camp overnight with spectacular Himalayan backdrop.
Day 15: Summit day / early start to the Mera peak top / Himalayan summit thrill
- Important day to climb Mera peak summit from high camp
- Summit day: The climb begins at around 2am so that we can make it during the best part of the day. Crampons, ice axe and ropes are required for the summit approach. We will climb a number of easy slopes before reaching the central summit (6,461m/21,198ft) and from here we will use a fixed rope for the last steep part of the climb. Although ascending we will have the breathtaking sun rise view of Kanchenjunga to the east and the peaks of Makalu and Everest as we climb.
- At the summit there are fantastic views across the Himalaya; Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyo and of course Everest an opportunity for a great photo shoot. We then make a careful descent back to the Base Camp for overnight halt.
- Total climbing/trekking time 8-10 hours.
Day 16-18: Climb to Amphu Laptsa base camp through Ongmadingma and Seto PokharI tented camp stay
- Trek Base Camp to Hinku/Honku Valley (5,220m/17,126ft).
- We continue into the upper yak pastures of this incredible remote valley.
- Great view of Chamlang (7,319m/24,013ft) on our left while the Baruntse (7,129m/23,390ft) comes beyond. Overnight in camp.
- Trek Honku Valley to Seto Pokhari (4,500m/14,764ft).
- We continue along this isolated trail with the great views of the majestic mountains.
- Camp overnight by the Lake.
- Trek Seto Pokhari to Amphu Lapcha (South) Base Camp (5,200m/17,061ft).
- Amphu Lapcha is one of the challenging high passes in the Khumbu valley. We climb steadily experiencing the wilderness of the Honku Valley. This is one of the outmost trekking regions in Nepal.
- We see Chamlang (7,319m/24,013ft) with hanging glaciers on its South-West and North-West faces on the right. We camp overnight in Amphu Lapcha Base Camp. Trekking time 6-7 hours.
Day 19: Cross the Amphu Labtsa pass / ascend and descent with fixed rope on glacier and rock
- Amphu Lapcha pass (5,800m/19,029ft) to Island Peak Base camp (5200m).
- Today we start our early climb on the steep sections of rock and ice. Climbing Rope is required for today’s trek. It is better to start the climb before the snow melts. The last sections of the Amphu Lapcha pass winds up through snow shelves. We still have a steep descent to cover on ropes leading down to the moraine. We spend the night at the Amphu Lapcha (North) Base Camp.
Day 20-21: Climb to the Island peak base camp / rest day
- We set off to the Island peak Base Camp with the trail initially crossing a stream below camp and then proceeding along the left-hand side of the valley, before heading to a higher Imza valley.
- Continuing on, the main trail comes to a more open area, climbs a moraine where edelweiss grows on a slope – crosses a sandy stretch, weaves among heaps of moraine climbs gradually to the Island peak Base camp.
- Today you have full leisure day you can have late wake up and breakfast as your body insist.
Day 22: Early start for the Island peak summit / great panoramic views
- Today’s trip is not only literally the “second high point” of our entire trek but it also has the absolutely high point with unbelievable views from the summit of Island Peak.The long awaited climb starts around 2.00am. The climb takes about 5-6 hours depending upon your pace to reach the summit. On the way to the summit, one can experience the most fantastic sunrise over Mt. Makalu.
- The route is technically difficult soon we will reach a point where a narrow side valley cuts off to the left. After about 300m it takes us to the East, climb the right-hand side to gain the lower top, marked with a number of slender cairns and then continue along the ridge scrambling over rocks and reach the crampon point with its flutter of prayer flags.
- From the summits, a truly incredible panorama is spread around you. Although Everest is of course not in view, the ice cone of Baruntse which from this summit appears higher than Makalu, has stunning beauty. Having really soaked up these incredible views we will return down to Base camp.
- Average time of summit 8-9 hours.
Day 23-25: Trek down to Lukla via Thyangboche and Namche / stay at teahouse / enjoy the shower
- From Island Peak Base Camp, we re-cross the Imja Khola on the wooden bridge and continue down to Dingbuche for lunch.
- After lunch we join on Everest Base camp trail to reach the famous gompa at Tyanboche believed to have been the biggest in the Khumbu region. We stay overnight at Tyangboche.
- We trek through a steep descent and the final steep climb to Kyenjuma Village then traverses the hillside into Namche Bazaar. It is unofficial capital and trekker’s junction of the Khumbu valley.
- We precede southward crossing and re-crossing the Dudh Koshi at intervals. We stay overnight in Lukla it is the last night on Mountain
Day 26-27: Fly to Kathmandu / contingency day in case of bad weather for Lukla flight
- We take the 35 minute flight from Ktm and transfer to hotel.
- Contingency day in case of bad weather for Lukla flight.
Day 28: End of the Mera and Island peak with Amphu Laptsa pass climbing trip /airport transfer.
- End of the Mera and Island peak with Amphu Laptsa pass climbing
- Transfer to the International airport / or other destination.
- Private Arrival and Departure transfers on both domestic and international flights.
- Standard Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu on Twin Share BB as per the Plan.
- Freshly cooked Full board meals prepared by our cook (breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) on whole Mera and Island peak climbing.
- Resposible trekking and climbing with 01 poter to 01 trekker.
- Properly boiled drinking water, tea and coffee while on whole Mera Island Amaphu Laptcha trip.
- Accommodation in Tented camp while on Mera and Island peak climbinb trip wigh Amaphu Laptsa pass.
- Accommodation at teahouse for 3 nights on the way down to Lukla from Island peak
- Welcome dinner as listed in the itinerary.
- Half day guided city tour with world heritage entrance fees as in itinerary.
- All Domestic flights and airport tax as listed in the itinerary.
- Private transportation to and from the starting and ending points of the trek.
- Mera and Island Peak Climbing Permit Royalty and other government tax.
- Climbing Clinic Course at base camp
- All required Personal and Group Climbing gear: La sportiva climbing boot, crampons, climbing rope, ice axe, zoomer, harness, figure of eight, carabineer etc
- All camping equipment provided including2-person member tent, dinning tent with table and chari, kitchen tent, staff and porter tent, toilet tent with commode etc.
- Mountain Monarch gear - sleeping bag, fleece inner liner, down jacket, rain poncho etc for the use during the trip.
- Professional and experienced trekking group leader trained in Wilderness First Aid.
- Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) / Gamow Bag (A life saving device in case of Acute Mountain Sickness) along with the comprehensive First Aid Kit.
- Well-experienced Climbing guide with all his allowance and expenses.
- Satellite Phone in case of emergency
- Trekking cook, kitchen staff, Trek Sherpa and other support staff.
- Porters to carry all personal gear and group equipment.
- Proper Insurance of all staff including porters.
- Warm clothing and trekking gear for staff including porters: Gortex jacket and trousers, fleece jacket and pant, trekking shoes, woolen hat, gloves, shocks, sunglasses etc.
- Mera and Everest region trekking map.
- Complementary duffle bag along with Mountain Monarch T-shirts.
- Peak climbing certificates issued from the respective body of Nepal Government.
- Comprehensive pre-departure information and trip dossiers
- Makalu and Everest National park and all government taxes etc.
- Nepal entry Visa fees, Your travel insurance of any kind, International Airfare
- All Drinks and main meals in cities.
- Tips and Items of personal expenses like hot shower, battery charge, telephone, beverage drinks etc
US$ 4,050.00 per person