• Duration: 26 Days
  • Diffculty: Strenuous 
  • Best Time: Oct-Nov, Apr-May
  • Max. Altitude: 6476 m

Mera and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Lapcha

Mera and Island Peak Climbing trip offers the climb of two famous trekking peaks. The challenging Amphu Laptch pass links Mera and Island Peak. The high altitude with rugged terrain makes this trip a challenging one. Of course, a fantastic journey of hiking to trekking peaks in Nepal. We walk through the less trodden Hinku to Imjatse valleys in Everest. Our curated itinerary ensures proper acclimatization. Climbing these Twin Peaks is an achievable goal with appropriate safety. Undoubtedly a great climbing opportunity not to miss.

Remote and Less Trodden Route to Mera and Island

We take the longer route to Mera Peak through the lush rhododendron and pine forests. We hike many ups and downs via the less-trodden region of Hinku Valley. Standing over 6460 meters, the Mera top offers a tremendous summit thrill. After the straightforward summit to Mera, we head east to Amphu Laptcha. We hike less used trails to the wilderness of Makalu region. We stay at Seto Pokhari, a sacred lake over 5000 meters. It nestles beneath the stunning ramparts of Chamlang, Lhotse, and Everest. Our next challenge is to cross the rugged Amphu Labtsa en route to Island Peak. This pass requires some technical climbing ability to travel it. Our climbing guides team fixes ropes where needed to make the descent safe and easy. Therefore, the abseil on the rocky crest and compact blue glacier ice sections are safe. Though Island Peak is smaller than Mera, it requires some technical skills. By now, you are well-trained and acclimatized to face the technical challenge.

We follow a steep ridge line leading towards the exposed traverse. The final ascent takes you along the vertical section using a fixed rope. Thus, it tests the climbing skills you have learned on the Mera Peak and Amphu Laptsa. The view from both of these peaks' summits is simply breathtaking.

Climbing Training, Gear, and Guide

We organize special climbing training courses at the base camp. We learn the use of climbing gear and safety skills for climbing. It ensures you are capable and confident enough to summit safely. We provide all the personal and group climbing gear. It makes your Mera and Island Peak climbing trip hassle-free and affordable. Such Gear includes climbing boots, carabiners, Jumar, harnesses, helmets, rope, etc. Well-experienced, medically trained, and reliable guide leads your trip.

Accommodation and Food, Safety

We stayed on a combination of a tea house and tented camp on this trip. Tea house stay while trekking whereas tented camp on climbing duration. We have full board meals from the tea house for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Our cook prepared the set of meals while climbing at the base camps. We carry an Oxygen tank and first aid kit as a safety backup. A satellite phone for emergencies on this remote and challenging trip.

Booking is Open for 2023 and 2024

April, May, October, and November are the best time for this Mera and Island Peak Climbing. We have set departure dates for the spring and autumn season in 2023 and 2024. An individual or group of trekkers can join any suitable trip date. Having a group of trekkers, we are flexible to customize it.

Trip in Nutshell

  • Twin Peaks expedition climb with challenging Amphu Laptcha pass.
  • Strenuous trekking and climbing trips to Mera and Island peaks.
  • Stunning Himalayan scenery - the adventure of a lifetime.
  • Notable Summit success rate on Trekking peak climbing.
  • Proper safety backup with an Oxygen and Medical box
  • All personal and group climbing gear is provided, including climbing boots.
  • Climbing clinic course before the summit push.
  • All full board meals are Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
  • Responsible adventure policy of 1 Trekker:1 Porter
  • Satellite phone on a trip in case of emergency.

Trip map

Mera and Island Peak Climbing map

Itinerary

The first day of the trip marks your arrival in Nepal. Upon arrival at Airport, we’ll welcome you and bring you to the hotel. Overnight in Kathmandu. City tour and trip preparation

  • Enjoy an aerial tour of Kathmandu Valley.
  • Explore the beautiful and bustling Kathmandu City.
  • Group welcome Dinner: Local food
  • The following day, the cultural tour
  • Afternoon gear checking and trip preparation
  • AccommodationHotel
  • MealsWelcome Dinner
  • Altitude1340 m

Early in the morning, we drive to Ramechhap for the Lukla flight. This is to avoid air traffic at Kathmandu airport.

  • Experience a spectacular drive to the countryside of Nepal.
  • Wow, experience and thrilling flight to Lukla.
  • An introduction to the traditional lifestyle of the Sherpa tribe.
  • Trek along the deep ravines of the Khumbu Valley to reach Puiyan village.
  • AccommodationTea house
  • MealsBreakfast, Lunch and Dinner
  • Altitude2790 m

Leaving Puiyan village behind, you’ll continue traversing the forested trail. It leads to the high mountain pass of Kari La. After the pass, we descend to Panggom through bamboo and rhododendron forests. We climb Panggom Pass at 3174 meters on our way to Peeng Kharka Danda. We trek to Chalen Kharka via Ningshow village and Surke la.

  • Explore the deep ravine of Dudh Koshi and Makalu Barun National Park.
  • Explore the traditional settlements of the ethnic Sherpa tribe.
  • Cross the high mountain passes of Kari La, Panggom La, and Surkye La.
  • AccommodationBasic Tea house
  • MealsB, L, D
  • Altitude3440 m

We begin traversing the pristine Makalu Barun National Park to reach the remote Hinku Valley. The trail climbs along the Yak pastures along the river. The locals bring their Yak flock to these Kharka only during summer. We cross a few ridges and head towards the exposed and opened ridge top. It offers a clear view of the mountains.

We climb a mountain pass to reach the pristine lakes of Panch Pokhari. We continue climbing through the rhododendron forests toward Khola Kharka. Further to the snow moraines and climbs towards the prayer flags. Catch the beautiful sights of Numbur, Pike Top, and Lamjura Pass. Then, the trail descends along the Hinku Khola. Later on, it climbs downstream along Majang Khola. Finally, we cross the suspension bridge to reach Kote for an overnight stay.

  • Walk past rich Yak pastures or Kharka. Witness a massive flock of yaks during summer.
  • Visit the revered Panch Pokhari. It is a collection of five different Oligotrophic Lakes.
  • Walk past lush rhododendron forests.
  • Trek into the remote glaciated region of Hinku Valley.
  • AccommodationTea House
  • MealsB, L, D
  • Altitude4120 m

We start our hike to Tangnag at 43000 m via the glaciated route. We climb upstream with Kinku Khola on the way to Kyashar height. First, catch the majestic sights of the three summits of Mera Peak.

  • Climb upstream with Hinku Khola through the glaciated Hinku Valley.
  • Catch the majestic sights of Mera Peak’s three summits
  • Witness the remote, pristine glaciated valley of Hinku. It remains popular for the endangered species of Snow Leopard.
  • AccommodationTea house
  • MealsB, L, D
  • Altitude4140 m

Leaving Tangnang, you'll begin ascending the glaciated path toward Khare. We hike via Kyeshare Peak and Dig Kharka to reach Khare. It is the last settlement and the base camp for the Mera peak climbing.

  • Climb the local Kyeshar Peak to access Khare or Mera Base Camp.
  • Catch the base camp's scenic views of Mera Peak, Charpati Himal, and Kyeshar.
  • Prepare for the climb by training with essential equipment.
  • AccommodationTea house
  • MealsB, L, D
  • Altitude4980 m

We begin climbing the snow and rock moraines to reach Mera La at 5,400 m. The route advances steeply out of Khare village. It leads through a rocky path overlooking Mera Peak. From here, it has been overblown by thick snow and rock gully onto the glacier. You may well require using crampons and helmets from here on. As you reach the glaciated path, the gradient eases off. A short hike brings you to Mera La camp for an overnight stay in a tent.

  • Set up a camp on an icy and windy spot overlooking Honku Valley.
  • Prepared for the upcoming climb to Mera Peak
  • You may indulge in climbing practice with your Sherpa guide.
  • AccommodationTented Camping
  • MealsFull board meals
  • Altitude5320 m

Today, you climb the high camp at an altitude of 5,800 meters. Reaching the Mera high camp takes around 4 hours of moderately steep ascend. We make our final ascent of Mera Peak from the high camp. The break-taking and incomparable view await you at the high camp. The Five 8000-meter peaks of Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Everest dominate the horizon.

  • Catch the pleasant view of some famous mountain peaks, including Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, and Cho Oyu.
  • Experience the tented camping adventure next to the mighty peaks.
  • AccommodationTented Camp
  • MealsB, L, D
  • Altitude5750 M

Today is the most exciting day on our Mera and Island peak trip. We will make the final ascent to the Mera Peak summit. This exceptionally long day begins early. We wake up around 2 am and have some breakfast. Meanwhile, your staff will prepare the ropes for the climb. Prepare yourself and carry an ice axe and crampons with you. We cross some glaciers with numerous crevasses. We climb slowly but steadily in a group. The trail climbs steeply to the east of the left-hand ridge below the summit. The last 50 meters to the summit is the hardest section of the climb. We use the fixed rope to climb to the top.

Once at the top, the magnificent sights reward you. Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Nuptse, and Chamlang Himal on your nose tip. We descend to high camp and head north to Kongma Dingma en route to Amphu Pass.

  • Scale the top, a physically demanding climb.
  • Catch the majestic mountainous panorama from the top.
  • AccommodationBasic Teahouse
  • MealsB, L, D
  • Altitude5000 m

Leaving Kongme Dingma, the trail climbs along the Yak pastures. Magnificent view of Chamlang and Baruntse Peak on route to Seto Pokhari. We spend a night at Seto Pokhari. Leaving Seto Pokhari, we hike over the upper flunk to Amphu Lapcha base camp. Enjoy the majestic sight of Mount Everest as you continue climbing along the glacial lakes toward Hunku Pokhari. A short hike brings you to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp South.

  • Climb through the remote glacial pond of Seto Pokhari and Hunku Pokhari.
  • Catch the majestic sights of Mount Everest, Baruntse, and Chamlang Himal.
  • AccommodationBasic Tea House
  • MealsB, L, D
  • Altitude5500 m

We begin traversing the snowy path leading to Amphu Lapcha Pass. Next, you'll access the Upper Hunku Valley, which is always covered with snow. Almost five hours walk, you'll finally arrive at Amphu Lapcha Pass. Continue trekking along the glaciated path and head down to Imja Glacier. A few hours of descent along the Amphu Lapcha Glacier brings you to Imja Tsho Lake, just beside Imja Glacier. From here, you'll descend along the rocky moraine toward Island Peak Base Camp.

  • Climb the highest and remotest pass linking Makalu to the Everest region.
  • Enjoy the beautiful glaciers of Lhotse Shar, Amphu Lapcha, and Imja.
  • AccommodationTented Camping
  • MealsB, L, D
  • Altitude4950 m

Today is a rest day at Island Peak Base Camp. You can spend this day preparing for the upcoming climb. Summiting Island Peak is technically more challenging than Mera Peak. Enjoy a short hike around Imja Glacier and walk down to Imja Tsho Lake. Overnight in Island Peak Base Camp.

  • AccommodationTented Camping
  • MealsB, L, D
  • Altitude4950 m

The most awaited day is here. The day begins early as you wake up at around 2 am. We have our breakfast and prepare to make the final summit. Carry the necessary gear and equipment for the climb. In the meantime, your Sherpa crew will prepare the ropes. The journey begins with a slow climb through snow and a few crevasses.

We follow a steep ridge line leading towards the exposed traverse. The final ascent takes you along the vertical section. We use fixed ropes and crampons on such steep parts. Once at the top, the majestic view of the surrounding peaks of Amadablam, Lhotse, and Makalu.

  • Summit is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal, Island Peak.
  • Catch the beautiful sights of Ama Dablam, Makalu, and Lhotse Shar glacier from the top.
  • AccommodationTented camping
  • MealsB, L, D
  • Altitude4950 m

We descend to Lukla via Pangboche and Namche. This makes a big circuit from Makalu to the Everest region in one go. We walk along the Imja and Dudh Koshi Khola. We have time to visit Pangbohe and Tengboche monasteries.

Retrace your path and continue climbing the Chhukung glacier towards Dudh Koshi Valley. A short descent along the glaciated way brings you to the Sherpa village of Dingboche. From here, you’ll continue climbing down towards Imja Khola. Then, cross the river and continue climbing uphill towards Pangboche. A short descent overlooking the beautiful Ama Dablam peak brings you to Tengboche village via Debuche. Enjoy some time exploring the century-old Tengboche Monastery. From here, the trail drops downstream along the Dudh Koshi River towards Namche Bazaar.

Bid farewell to the beautiful view of Kongde Ri Peak as you descend toward Monjo village. Exit Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo and continue climbing down to Lukla via Phakding village.

  • Enjoy trekking the famous Everest Base Camp Trail.
  • Visit the most popular Pangboche and Tengboche Monastery.
  • Explore Namche Bazaar, the so call capital of the Khumbu region.
  • AccommodationTea house
  • MealsB, L, D
  • Altitude2850 m

Bid farewell to Lukla as you board the flight to Kathmandu. Upon arrival, you'll drive to the hotel and enjoy your breakfast. Overnight in Kathmandu. Next day flight back home

  • Experience a thrilling flight from Lukla to Kathmandu.
  • Enjoy the beautiful aerial tour of Kathmandu Valley.
  • Spend quality time in Kathmandu enjoying souvenir shopping and massage.
  • We customize the airport transfer for your onward flight.
  • AccommodationHotel
  • MealsBreakfast
  • Altitude1340 m

This crafted and curated itinerary combines the twin peaks climbing of Mera and Island Peaks with a remote and challenging pass of Amphu Laptcha in the Everest region of Nepal.

 
What's Included
  • Airport transfers on both international and domestic flights.
  • Standard Hotel on Twin Share with Breakfast.
  • Group Welcome dinner
  • Half-day cultural city tour with heritage site fees.
  • Kathmandu Lukla Kathmandu ( Ramechhap) flight.
  • Full board meals Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner
  • Climbing permits for both Island ad Mera Peaks
  • Special climbing training course at base camp.
  • Tea house and Camping as applicable on a trip.
  • All personal and group climbing gear, including the climbing boots.
  • Company warm gear for free use, like a sleeping bag and down jacket,
  • Camping gear, including member and crew tents while climbing
  • Supplementary Oxygen cylinder with required medicine
  • Medially trained and experienced guides and crew with required gear and insurance.
  • Satellite Phone in case of emergency
  • Complimentary Trek Duffle bag and trekking map
  • Peak Climbing certificates
  • Makalu and Everest National Park entry fees.
  • Trekking permits and all government taxes etc.
What's Excluded
  • Nepal Visa fees and your travel insurance of any kind,
  • International Airfare
  • All Drinks and main meals in cities.
  • Beverage drinks on the trek
  • Tips and Items of personal expenses like hot shower, battery charge, wifi, etc.

Dates & Availability

Mera and Island Peaks Climbing Trip Dates:

We offer this Twin Peaks climbing at an affordable cost. We have set departure dates to join the group for 2024.

April Departure
     
Start DateStart DateApril 06, 2024End DateEnd DateMay 01, 2024StatusStatusAvailablePricePriceUS$3990
Start DateStart DateApril 20, 2024End DateEnd DateMay 15, 2024StatusStatusGuaranteedPricePriceUS$3990
Customer Reviews
  • O
    Ola Nordkvist 5.0SwedenOctober 26, 2023logo
    Great experience on Mera and Island Peak!

    I had an outstanding experience with Mountain Monarch on the Mera and Island peak-trip!It was truly an adventure and a trip I will never forget. Everything was well planned and I felt safe and well taken care of throughout the whole trip. Great crew, great food, great itinerary! I highly recommend Mountain Monarch.

  • L
    Leo Le Stum Boivin 5.0CanadaJune 07, 2022logo
    Life changing experience!

    This trip was a life-changing experience. Mountain Monarch was perfect, from the pickup at the airport to the drop-off at the journey's end. The owner Pradip was an excellent host at every level, from grating at my arrival to answering all my questions before, during, and after the trip. The guides and the porters during the trek were also excellent; I felt secure during all technical parts of the climbing. Ngimaand his brother was great guide and taught us a lot about Sherpa's culture since there are both from the region. I did Mera, Amphu Lapcha Pass, and Island Peak during this trek. The route for those peaks was a healthy design by Mountain Monarch, so much so that we didn't feel any altitude sickness. I highly recommend this local company for any trek in Nepal. Thank you again for this fantastic experience. Leo.

  • C
    Chin Ling Wong 5.0MalaysiaJanuary 06, 2019logo
    Memorable trip

    Four weeks trip with 23 days of trekking and climbing from Lukla to Mera (6419) and Island Peak (6189m) via Amphu Laptsa Pass (5845m). Amphu Laptsa Pass is graded D and the second hardest in the Himalayas region. It was a fantastic experience to land and took off at the world's most dangerous airport. The feeling is indescribable until you experience it. Twelve were in the group, plus five guides, 12 porters, and seven kitchen crew throughout the hike. We stayed in tents for 20 days and the last three days in the local tea houses. One of the highlights of our trip is no shower for 23 days, and the toilets are fundamental. The higher the altitude, the more basic the bathroom will be. We were amazed that we survived without any problems. The weather is freezing, and the daily temperature is below zero degrees Celsius. Waking up daily with snow/ice on the tent, sleeping bag, and beanie is no joke. Hail and snow are expected during our hiking period. Twenty-three days without connecting to the outside world is another good experience. No electricity was available, and I charged my watch and camera with a solar charger. Thank you, Mountain Monarch and the team, for this memorable trip.

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