Mera and Island Peak Climbing

  • Duration: 26 Days


  • Difficulty LevelStrenuous Plus
  • Trip ModeCamping and Tea House
  • Best TimeApril - May, Oct - Nov
  • Max Altitude6,476 m

Mera and Island peak Climbing with Challenging Himalayan Traverse of Amphu Laptsa

Mera and Island peak climbing trip offers the climb of two famous trekking peaks in the Himalayas. Climbing these twin peaks of Mera and Island in Nepal combined with crossing the high spectacular and challenging Amphu Lapcha pass makes this expedition a very special and challenging one. Ultimately the best demanding trekking with trekking peaks climbing experience in Nepal. Mountain Monarch has professionally designed this expedition itinerary to allow every participant to have proper acclimatization. Resulting in the summit of these two trekking peaks over 6000 meters is an achievable goal. Furthermore the trek through the remote valleys of Hinku and Imja Tse in the Everest region. Great opportunity not to miss in the Himalayas.

Climb the Mera and Island Peaks: All Climbing Gear Provided

Standing over 6460 meters, spectacular Mera Peak offers a great Himalayan summit thrill. A challenging long high altitude trek to climb in the Himalaya. Island Peak at 6189 meters, though of a lesser height, is slightly more technically demanding and exposed than the Mera. Thus it tests the climbing skills you have to learn on the Mera Peak and Amphu Laptsa crossing a week before. The view from both of these peaks' summit is simply breathtaking.

We organize special climbing training course at base camp. Thus to ensures that you are capable and confident enough to summit the Mera and Island peak expedition safely. The Amphu Labtsa pass requires some technical climbing ability to cross it safely. To make the descent safe and easy our climbing guides team fix ropes for you. Therefore the abseil on the rocky crest and compact blue glacier ice sections totally safe. We provide all the personal and group climbing gear to make it a hassle-free and affordable climbing trip in the Himalayas.

Crossing the Amphu Laptch Pass with Twin Peaks Climbing in the Himalaya

We take the longer route to Mera peak base camp through the lush forests of rhododendron and pine. While higher up there are the uninhabited alpine areas of the upper Hinku valley. After the Mera Peak summit, we head eastwards exploring the less used route towards Makalu and the wilderness of the Hinku valley. Furthermore, we camp at Seto Pokhari, a sacred lake at over 5000 meters nestling beneath the stunning ramparts of Chamlang, Lhotse, and Everest dominating the horizon. Our next challenge is crossing the tough Amphu Labtsa pass at 5700 meters on our way to Island Peak. Undoubtedly the panoramic summit views are absolutely wonderful and will stay in your memory forever.

Finally, we trek down to Lukla via Thyangboche monastery. We stay at local tea houses while trekking down from Island Peak to Lukla. This change of accommodation allows you can enjoy the relatively cozy comfort of the teahouse. Enjoy the dining room and sleep in a comfortable bed after many nights spent in tented camps. We expect our participants on this Mera and Island peak climbing with Amphu Laptsa expedition to have extensive outdoor adventure skills with good trekking and hiking experience. Prior climbing experience is recommended and welcome but not mandatory as we will train you in all necessary climbing skills at base camps.

Twin Peaks climbing itinerary: 

Details day to day of Twin Mera and Island Peaks Climbing Itinerary with elevation, approx walking hours and topography.

  • 1 Day
    Arrival in Kathmandu / airport pick up / stay at hotel in Kathmandu
    • Hotel
    • Welcome Dinner
    • 1340 m
    • Car
    • Airport transfers

    The first day of the trip marks your arrival in Nepal. Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, we’ll warmly receive you and bring you to the hotel. After the initial greeting with us and your climb guide, you can relax in the hotel. Enjoy refreshments. Overnight in Kathmandu.

    • Enjoy an aerial tour of Kathmandu Valley.
    • Enjoy a refreshment at the hotel and meet your trip staff.
    • Explore the beautiful and bustling Kathmandu City.
  • 2 Day
    Cultural tour and trip preparation
    • Hotel
    • Breakfast
    • 1340 m
    • Hiace
    • Tour and trip briefing

    The second day of the trip begins with a tour of Kathmandu Valley. Enjoy your breakfast and then embark on a tour to a few of the most popular tourist sites, including Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath, Kathmandu Durbar Square, and Boudhanath. You will get to witness four of the seven UNESCO designated sites in the city. Also known as the “City of Temples,” Kathmandu remains home to numerous religious, historical, and cultural sites. Overnight in Kathmandu.

    • Visit Swayambhunath and Boudhanath, two of the most revered Buddhist sites in Kathmandu City. Swayambhunath lies atop the hill overlooking the entire city while Boudhanath lies amidst the bustling Boudha Town.
    • Pashupatinath is one of the most visited UNESCO designated sites in the city. It is home to the centuries-old temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.
    • Kathmandu Durbar Square is a historical site that is home to an ancient Malla Palace, temples, historical statues, and a royal courtyard.
  • 3 Day
    Fly to Lukla and expedition starts with hike to Piuyan, walk 4 - 5 hrs
    • Tea house
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 2790 m
    • Plane
    • Flight and trek starts

    Embark on an early morning flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. Lukla is a mountainous town located 138km northeast of Kathmandu. Enjoy a scenic 30min flight overlooking the pristine mountains and ravines. Upon arrival, you can enjoy your breakfast. Leaving Lukla, you’ll begin descending south towards Surkey village. From Surkey, the trail steeply climbs towards Chutok La. A short descent takes you to Paiya village, followed by a scenic trek along the Handi Khola towards Puiyan. Overnight in Puiyan.

    • Experience a spectacular mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, a Himalayan town.
    • Explore the traditional lifestyle of the ethnic Sherpa tribe.
    • Trek along the deep ravines of the Khumbu Valley to reach Puiyan village via Chutok La.
  • 4-6 Day
    Trek to Chalen Khark via Pangkongma and Nargin Dingma
    • Tea house
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 3440 m
    • Less trodden route

    Leaving Puiyan village behind, you’ll continue traversing the forested trail towards the high mountain pass of Kari La. The trail descends through rhododendron and bamboo forests towards the Sherpa village of Panggom. The trail steeply climbs through the beautiful rhododendron forest towards Panggom La Pass (3174m) and continue downstream along the Pesang Kharka Khola to reach Peeng Kharka Danda.

    Continue trekking downhill towards Ningsow Khola and cross the stream to reach Ningshow village. Leaving Ningshow village, you’ll begin climbing the steep trail to Surkey La, which opens access to Chalen Kharka (3600m). Cross the mighty Surkey La and continue climbing uphill through the lush grass fields towards Chalen Kharka. Overnight in Chalen.

    • Explore the deep ravine of Dudh Koshi Valley and Makalu Barun National Park.
    • Explore the traditional settlements of the ethnic Sherpa tribe.
    • Cross the high mountain passes of Kari La, Panggom La, and Surkye La.
  • 7-8 Day
    Trek to Kote via Khola Kharka (4120 m)
    • Tea house
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 3490 m
    • Hiking to Khote

    Leaving Chalen Kharka, you'll begin traversing the pristine Makalu Barun National Park to reach the remote Hinku Valley. The trail climbs along the Yak pastures or Kharka situated along the river. The locals bring their Yak flock to these Kharka only during summer. Cross a few ridges and head towards the exposed ridge that offers a clear view of mountains as far as Kanchenjunga Peak (8586m) on a clear day.

    Cross a mountain pass to reach the pristine lakes of Panch Pokhari. Leaving the holy lakes of Panch Pokhari, you’ll continue climbing through the rhododendron forests towards Khola Kharka. You’ll enter the remote part of the Barun Valley. The scenic trail continues along the snow moraines and climbs towards the prayer flags.

    Catch the beautiful sights of Numbur, Pike top, and Lamjura pass. The trail begins to climb downhill along the Hinku Khola and climbs further downstream along Majang Khola. Cross the suspension bridge to reach Kote village. Overnight in Kote.

    • Walk past rich Yak pastures or Kharka, which often sees a huge flock of Yak during summer.
    • Visit the revered Panch Pokhari, the collection of five different Oligotrophic Lakes.
    • Walk past lush rhododendron forests and trek into the remote glaciated region of Hinku Valley.
  • 9-10 Day
    Trek to Tangnang, walk 5 - 6 hrs & acclimatisation rest day
    • Tea house
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 4140 m
    • Trek and acclimation hike

    Leaving Kote, you’ll begin traversing Hinku Valley and cross the glaciated path to reach Tangnang (4300m). The trail continues to climb upstream along the Hinku Khola and crosses few landslide-prone areas towards Kyashar height. Catch the majestic sights of three summits of Mera Peak. Enjoy a delicious lunch at Tangnang overlooking the beautiful views of Kyashar height and Kusum Kanguru from the teahouse. Overnight in Tangnang.

    • Climb upstream along the pristine Hinku Khola through the glaciated Hinku valley.
    • Catch the majestic sights of Mera Peak’s three summits (Mera North, Mera Central, and Mera South), Kyashar Height, and Kusum Kanguru.
    • Witness the remote, pristine glaciated valley of Hinku that remains popular for the endangered species of Snow Leopard. 
  • 11-12 Day
    Trek to Khare Mera base camp, walk 5 hrs & climbing training
    • Tea house
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 4980 m
    • Climb & Climbing Clinic

    Leaving Tangnang, you’ll begin ascending the glaciated path towards Khare. Khare is the last destination before approaching Mera Peak. The climber’s base camp is also set up at Khare. A three-four hours trek takes you towards Kyeshar Peak. Leaving Kyeshar, you’ll begin climbing the glaciated path towards Dig Kharka, located in a snow-clad valley. Walk past Dig Kharka for few more hours to reach Khare and enjoy a delicious lunch. Acclimatization at Khare.

    • Climb the local Kyeshar Peak to access Khare or Mera Base Camp.
    • Catch the scenic views of Mera Peak, Charpati Himal, and Kyeshar from the base camp.
    • Prepare for the climb by training with essential equipment such as an ice axe and crampon.
  • 13 Day
    Climb the Mera la base camp, walk 2 hrs
    • Tented Camp
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 5320 m
    • Climb

    Leaving Khare, you’ll begin climbing the snow and rock moraines to reach Mera La (5,400m). The short ascent will be steep and arduous. The trail advances steeply out of Khare and leads through a rocky path overlooking Mera Peak. From here, the trail gets overblown by thick snow and rock gully onto the glacier. You may well require using crampons and helmets here on. As you reach the glaciated path, the gradient eases off. A short hike brings you to Mera La. Overnight in Mera La.

    • Set up a camp on an icy and windy spot overlooking Honku valley.
    • Prepare for the upcoming climb and indulge in a brief training session with your Sherpa guide.
  • 14 Day
    Climb the Mera high camp walk 4 hrs
    • Tented camp
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 5750 m
    • Climbing high camp

    Today, you’ll access the high camp located at an altitude of 5,800 meters. Another short ascent over the Mera glacier takes you to the extreme camp. The final ascent of Mera Peak is made from the high camp. Embark on a moderately steep climb and ascend for around 4 hours to reach Mera High Camp. Upon arrival, you can catch the breathtaking view of five out of the six highest mountains in Nepal, including Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Mount Everest. Overnight in a camp.

    • Catch the pleasant view of some of the most famous mountain peaks, Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, and Cho Oyu.
    • Experience the adventure of camping as you enjoy a warm lunch and dinner inside the camp.
  • 15-16 Day
    Summit the Mera peak ( 6461 m) and descend to Kongme Dingma, climb 10 hrs
    • Tea hosue
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 5000 m
    • Summit Day

    Today is the most exciting day of the trip. You’ll make the final ascent to Mera Peak summit. This particularly long day begins early. You’ll wake up around 2 am and enjoy your breakfast. Meanwhile, your staff will prepare the ropes for the climb. Prepare yourself and carry ice ax and crampons before beginning the ascent. As you begin to ascend, you will encounter a large, open glacier with numerous crevasses. Be careful and continue with your sluggish pace. The trail climbs steeply to the east of the left-hand ridge before heading right just below the summit. The last 50 meters to the summit is the hardest section of the climb. Use the fixed rope to do the climb to the top.

    Once at the top, the magnificent sights of Everest, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Nuptse, and Chamlang Himal will reward you. You’ll begin climbing down and access the same route back to Khare. After clearing the base camp, you’ll embark on a short trek east. A short descent along the rock moraines brings you to Kongme Dingma.

    • Enjoy the most exciting day of the trek as you leave the high camp and climb the Mera Peak summit.
    • Catch the majestic mountainous panorama, including Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, and Makalu.
  • 17-18 Day
    Trek to Amphu Latcha camp vai Seto Pokhari
    • Tea house
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 5500 m
    • remote high alpine route

    Leaving Kongme Dingma, the trail begins to climb along the rich Yak pastures, also known as Kharka. You may witness few shepherd huts along the trail. Enjoy the magnificent sights of Chamlang Himal and Baruntse Peak as you make your way towards Seto Pokhari. The trail begins to climb through snow moraine before reaching Seto Pokhari. Leaving Seto Pokhari, you'll embark on an upper flunk leading towards Amphu Lapcha Base Camp. Enjoy the majestic sight of Mount Everest as you continue climbing along the glacial lakes towards Hunku Pokhari. A short hike brings you to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp South.

    • Climb through the remote glacial pond of Seto Pokhari and Hunku Pokhari.
    • Catch the majestic sights of Mount Everest, Baruntse, and Chamlang Himal.
  • 19 Day
    Cross the Amphu Laptcha pass and trek to Island peak base camp: walk 9 hrs
    • Tented camp
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 4950 m
    • Cross the Challenging pass

    Leaving Amphu Lapcha Base Camp, you’ll begin traversing the snowy path leading to Amphu Lapcha Pass. You'll access the Upper Hunku Valley, which is always covered with snow. Almost five hours into the trek, you’ll finally arrive at Amphu Lapcha Pass. Continue trekking along the glaciated path and head down to Imja Glacier. A few hours of descent along the Amphu Lapcha Glacier brings you to Imja Tsho Lake, located just beside Imja Glacier. From here, you’ll begin ascending along the rocky moraine towards Island Peak Base Camp.

    • Climb the highest and remotest mountainous pass in the Everest Region, Amphu Lapcha Pass.
    • Enjoy trekking along with the beautiful glaciers of Lhotse Shar, Amphu Lapcha, and Imja.
  • 20 Day
    Rest day at Island peak base camp
    • Tented Camp
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 4950 m
    • Rest or Practice Day
    Today is a rest day at Island Peak Base Camp. You can spend this day preparing for the upcoming climb. Summiting Island peak is relatively easier than summiting Mera Peak. Enjoy a short hike around Imja Glacier and walk down to Imja Tsho Lake. Overnight in Island Peak Base Camp.
  • 21 Day
    Summit the Island peak ( 6189 m), approx climb 10 hrs
    • Tented camp
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 4950 m
    • Summit Day

    The most awaited day is here. The day begins early as you wake up at around 2 am. We have our breakfast and prepare to make the final summit. Carry the necessary gear and equipment for the climb. In the meantime, your Sherpa crew will prepare the ropes. The journey begins with a slow climb through snow and few crevasses before arriving at the right side of the glaciated gully.

    A steep climb takes you to the ridge from where you can access the exposed ridge leading to the top. Follow a steep ridge line leading towards the exposed traverse. The final ascent takes you along the steep section using fixed rope and crampons. Once at the top, you can enjoy the majestic view of the surrounding mountains, including Amadablam, Lhotse, and Makalu. Embark on the descent and continue climbing back to Island Peak Base Camp. After clearing the camp, you'll continue trekking down to base camp or Chhukung village.

    • Summit the most popular trekking peak in Nepal, Island Peak.
    • Catch the beautiful sights of Amadablam, Makalu, Lhotse Shar glacier from the top.
  • 22-24 Day
    Trek down to Lukla via Pangbohe and Namche
    • Tea house
    • B, L, D, Tea, Coffee & Drinking water
    • 2850 m
    • Descending

    Retrace your path and continue climbing down along the Chhukung glacier towards Dudh Koshi Valley. A short descend along the glaciated path brings you to the Sherpa village of Dingboche. From here, you’ll continue climbing down towards Imja Khola. Cross the river and continue climbing uphill towards Pangboche. A short descent overlooking the beautiful Ama Dablam peak brings you to Tengboche village via Debuche. Enjoy some time exploring the century-old Tengboche Monastery. From here, the trail continues to drop downstream along the Dudh Koshi River towards Namche Bazaar.

    Bid adieu to the beautiful view of Kongde Ri Peak as you begin climbing down towards Monjo village. Exit Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo and continue climbing down to Lukla via Phakding village.

    • Enjoy trekking through the famous Everest Base Camp Trail and explore the beautiful Dudh Koshi Valley.
    • Visit the most popular Pangboche Monastery and Tengboche Monastery. Tengboche Monastery is a 100-years-old monastery in Tengboche that hosts the annual Tiji festival.
    • Explore Namche Bazaar, the largest village in the region, and enjoy the beautiful sight of Kongde Ri Peak.
  • 25 Day
    Fly to Kathmandu and stay at hotel
    • Hotel
    • Breakfast
    • 1340
    • Plane
    • Flight and rest free

    Bid farewell to Lukla as you board on the flight to Kathmandu. Enjoy a 30min long flight from Lukla to Kathmandu overlooking the pristine mountains and lush forested hills. Upon arrival, you'll drive to the hotel and enjoy your breakfast. Overnight in Kathmandu.

    • Experience a thrilling flight from Lukla to Kathmandu.
    • Enjoy the beautiful aerial tour of Kathmandu Valley.
    • Spend quality time at Kathmandu enjoying souvenir shopping, massage.
  • 26 Day
    Twin peak expedition ends / airport transfer
    • Breakfast
    • Car
    • Airport transfer

    Today is the last day of the trip. Bid adieu to Kathmandu City as you embark on a flight back home. We’ll drive you to the airport approximately two hours before your flight time.

Trip Inclusion

  • Customize arrival and departure transfers on both domestic and international flights.
  • Standard hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on twin share BB as per the plan.
  • Welcome group dinner as listed in the itinerary.
  • Half-day guided city tour with world heritage entrance fees as in itinerary.
  • Kathmandu Lukla Kathmandu and airport tax as listed in the itinerary
  • All meals ( Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner) with drinking water on the whole trek and climb
  • Accommodation at teahouse while trekking and tented camp while on the climbing duration
  • Both twin peaks ( Mera and Island) climbing royalty and government taxes
  • Climbing Clinic Course at base camp
  • All required Personal and Group Climbing gear: La Sportiva climbing boot, crampons, climbing rope, ice axe, Jumar, harness, the figure of eight, Carabiner along with required camping gear while on the climbing duration 
  • Mountain Monarch gear - sleeping bag, fleece inner liner, down jacket, rain poncho etc for use during the trip.
  • Supplementary Oxygen with regular / Gamow Bag (A life-saving device in case of Acute Mountain Sickness) along with the comprehensive First Aid Kit.
  • Well-experienced Climbing guides with all his allowance and expenses.
  • Professional and experienced trekking group leader trained in Wilderness First Aid along and trek support crew with proper gear and insurance 
  • Satellite Phone in case of emergency
  • Complimentary Trek Duffle bag and trekking map
  • Peak climbing certificates are issued from the respective body of the Nepal Government.
  • Makalu and Everest National park and all government taxes etc.
  • Nepal entry Visa fees, Your travel insurance of any kind, International Airfare
  • All Drinks and main meals in cities.
  • Tips and Items of personal expenses like the hot shower, battery charge, telephone, beverage drinks.

Cost and Dates

Mera & Island Peaks Trip Dates

Mera and Island peak expedition cost and fixed and confirmed trip departure dates for 2021 and 2022 to join the group trip to the Himalayas in Nepal.

Start DateEnd DateStatusPrice 
02 Oct, 202127 Oct, 2021AvailableUS$3850
16 Oct, 202110 Nov, 2021GuaranteedUS$3850
30 Oct, 202124 Nov, 2021AvailableUS$3850

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