Overview

  • Duration: 26 Days
  • Diffculty: Strenuous 
  • Best Time: Oct-Nov, Apr-May
  • Max. Altitude: 6476 m

Mera and Island peak Climbing via Challenging Amphu Lapcha

Mera and Island peak climbing trip offers the climb of two famous trekking peaks in the Himalayas. Climbing these twin peaks of Mera and Island in Nepal combined with crossing the high spectacular and challenging Amphu Lapcha pass makes this expedition an extraordinary and challenging one. Ultimately the best demanding trekking with trekking peaks climbing experience in Nepal. Mountain Monarch has professionally designed this expedition itinerary to allow every proper participant acclimatization. Resulting in the summit of these two trekking peaks over 6000 meters is an achievable goal. Furthermore, the trek through the Everest region's remote valleys of Hinku and Imja Tse. Great opportunity not to miss in the Himalayas.

Twin Peak Climb - All Climbing Gear Provided

Standing over 6460 meters, the spectacular Mera Peak offers a tremendous Himalayan summit thrill. A challenging long high, altitude trek to climb in the Himalayas. Island Peak, at 6189 meters, though of a lesser height, is slightly more technically demanding and exposed than the Mera. Thus it tests the climbing skills you have to learn on the Mera Peak and Amphu Laptsa crossing a week before. The view from both of these peaks' summits is simply breathtaking.

We organize special climbing training courses at the base camp. Thus, it ensures you are capable and confident enough to summit the Mera and Island peaks climbing safely. The Amphu Labtsa pass requires some technical climbing ability to cross it safely. Our climbing guides team fixes ropes for you to make the descent safe and easy. Therefore the abseil on the rocky crest and compact blue glacier ice sections are safe. We provide all the personal and group climbing gear to make it a hassle-free and affordable trip in the Himalayas.

Mera and Island peak climbing via Amphu Lapcha Pass

We take the longer route to Mera peak base camp through the lush rhododendron and pine forests. While higher up, there are the uninhabited alpine areas of the upper Hinku valley. After the Mera Peak summit, we head eastwards, exploring the less-used route towards Makalu and the wilderness of the Hinku valley. Furthermore, we camp at Seto Pokhari, a sacred lake at over 5000 meters nestling beneath the stunning ramparts of Chamlang, Lhotse, and Everest dominating the horizon. Our next challenge is crossing the rugged Amphu Labtsa pass at 5700 meters on our way to Island Peak. Though climbing to the Island peak is challenging, you are well-trained and acclimatized properly to scale it safely with our experienced climbing guide. Undoubtedly the panoramic summit views are lovely and will stay in your memory forever.

Finally, we trek down to Lukla via Thyangboche monastery. We stay at local tea houses while trekking from Island Peak to Lukla. This accommodation change allows you to enjoy the relatively cozy comfort of the teahouse. Enjoy the dining room and sleep in a comfortable bed after many nights spent in tented camps. We expect our participants on this Mera and Island peak climbing via Amphu Laptsa pass expedition trip to have extensive outdoor adventure skills with good trekking and hiking experience. Prior climbing experience is recommended and welcome but not mandatory, as we will train you in all necessary climbing skills at base camps.

Mera and Island Peak climbing trip booking is open for 2023 and 2024

Spring and autumn seasons, April, May, October, and November, are the best time to do this Island and Mera peak climbing via a challenging pass of Amphu Lapcha over 5000 meters in the Himalayas. We have confirmed group joining departure dates for the years 2023 and 2024 to join this expedition-style adventure climbing in the Everest region of Nepal. Having the group of trekkers, let us know; we are flexible to customize the departure date and itinerary base on your requirements.

Trip in Nutshell

  • Twin peaks expedition climb with challenging Amphu Laptcha pass
  • Strenuous trekking and climbing trip to Mera and Island peaks
  • Stunning Himalayan scenery - the adventure of a lifetime
  • Travel with the top-rated company in Nepal with its exceptional Summit success rate
  • Proper safety backup with a supplementary Oxygen cylinder and Medical box
  • All personal and group climbing gear provided, including the climbing boots
  • Climbing clinic course before the summit push of twin peaks
  • All full board meals B, L, and D with Tea, coffee
  • Environment-friendly and Responsible adventure policy of 1 Trekker:1 Porter
  • Satellite phone on a trip in case of emergency.

Trip map

Mera and Island Peak Climbing map

Itinerary

The first day of the trip marks your arrival in Nepal. Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, we’ll warmly receive you and bring you to the hotel. After the initial greeting with us and your climb guide, you can relax in the hotel. Enjoy refreshments. Overnight in Kathmandu.

  • Enjoy an aerial tour of Kathmandu Valley.
  • Enjoy a refreshment at the hotel and meet your trip staff.
  • Explore the beautiful and bustling Kathmandu City.
  • AccommodationHotel
  • MealsWelcome Dinner
  • Altitude1340 m

The second day of the trip begins with a tour of Kathmandu Valley. Enjoy your breakfast and then take time at a few popular tourist sites, including Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath, Kathmandu Durbar Square, and Boudhanath. You will witness four of the seven UNESCO-designated sites in the city. Also known as the “City of Temples,” Kathmandu remains home to numerous religious, historical, and cultural sites. Overnight in Kathmandu.

  • Visit Swayambhunath and Boudhanath, two of the most revered Buddhist sites in Kathmandu City. Swayambhunath lies atop the hill overlooking the entire city, while Boudhanath lies amidst the bustling Boudha Town.
  • Pashupatinath is one of the most visited UNESCO-designated sites in the city. It is home to the centuries-old temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.
  • Kathmandu Durbar Square is a historical site home to an ancient Malla Palace, temples, historical statues, and a royal courtyard.
  • AccommodationHotel
  • MealsBreakfast
  • Altitude1340 m

Embark on an early morning drive from Kathmandu to Phaplu and Khari Khola to avoid the uncertainty of the Lukla flight.

  • Experience a spectacular drive to the country sides of Nepal
  • Explore the traditional lifestyle of the ethnic Sherpa tribe.
  • Trek along the deep ravines of the Khumbu Valley to reach Puiyan village via Chutok La.
  • AccommodationTea house
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude2790 m

Leaving Puiyan village behind, you’ll continue traversing the forested trail toward the high mountain pass of Kari La. The trail descends through rhododendron and bamboo forests towards the Sherpa village of Panggom. The trail steeply climbs through the beautiful rhododendron forest towards Panggom La Pass (3174m) and continues downstream along the Pesang Kharka Khola to reach Peeng Kharka Danda.

Continue trekking downhill towards Ningsow Khola and cross the stream to reach Ningshow village. Leaving Ningshow village, you’ll begin climbing the steep trail to Surke La, which opens access to Chalen Kharka (3600m). Cross the mighty Surke La and climb uphill through the lush grass fields toward Chalen Kharka. Overnight in Chalen.

  • Explore the deep ravine of Dudh Koshi Valley and Makalu Barun National Park.
  • Explore the traditional settlements of the ethnic Sherpa tribe.
  • Cross the high mountain passes of Kari La, Panggom La, and Surkye La.
  • AccommodationBasic Tea house
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude3440 m

Leaving Chalen Kharka, you'll begin traversing the pristine Makalu Barun National Park to reach the remote Hinku Valley. The trail climbs along the Yak pastures or Kharka situated along the river. The locals bring their Yak flock to these Kharka only during summer. Cross a few ridges and head towards the exposed ridge that offers a clear view of mountains as far as Kanchenjunga Peak (8586m) on a clear day.

Cross a mountain pass to reach the pristine lakes of Panch Pokhari. Leaving the holy lakes of Panch Pokhari, you'll continue climbing through the rhododendron forests toward Khola Kharka. You'llFinally, you’ll enter the remote part of the Barun Valley. The scenic trail continues along the snow moraines and climbs towards the prayer flags.

Catch the beautiful sights of Numbur, Pike top, and Lamjura pass. Then, the trail begins to climb downhill along the Hinku Khola and climbs further downstream along Majang Khola. Finally, cross the suspension bridge to reach Kote village. Overnight in Kote.

  • Walk past rich Yak pastures or Kharka, which often sees a massive flock of Yak during summer.
  • Visit the revered Panch Pokhari, the collection of five different Oligotrophic Lakes.
  • Walk past lush rhododendron forests and trek into the remote glaciated region of Hinku Valley.
  • AccommodationTea House
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude4120 m

Leaving Kote, you’ll begin traversing Hinku Valley and cross the glaciated path to reach Tangnang (4300m). The trail continues to climb upstream along the Hinku Khola and crosses several landslide-prone areas towards Kyashar height. First, catch the majestic sights of the three summits of Mera Peak. Then, enjoy a delicious lunch at Tangnang overlooking the beautiful views of Kyashar height and Kusum Kanguru from the teahouse. Overnight in Tangnang.

  • Climb upstream along the pristine Hinku Khola through the glaciated Hinku valley.
  • Catch the majestic sights of Mera Peak’s three summits (Mera North, Mera Central, and Mera South), Kyashar Height, and Kusum Kanguru.
  • Witness the remote, pristine glaciated valley of Hinku that remains popular for the endangered species of Snow Leopard. 
  • AccommodationTea house
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude4140 m

Leaving Tangnang, you'll begin ascending the glaciated path toward Khare. Khare is the last destination before approaching Mera Peak. The climber's base camp is also set up at Khare. Next, a three-four hours trek takes you towards Kyeshar Peak. Leaving Kyeshar, you'll begin climbing the glaciated path toward Dig Kharka, a snow-clad valley. Walk past Dig Kharka for a few more hours to reach Khare and enjoy a delicious lunch. Acclimatization at Khare.

  • Climb the local Kyeshar Peak to access Khare or Mera Base Camp.
  • Catch the base camp's scenic views of Mera Peak, Charpati Himal, and Kyeshar.
  • Prepare for the climb by training with essential equipment such as an ice axe and crampon.
  • AccommodationTea house
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude4980 m

Leaving Khare, you’ll begin climbing the snow and rock moraines to reach Mera La (5,400m). The short ascent will be steep and arduous. The trail advances steeply out of Khare and leads through a rocky path overlooking Mera Peak. From here, the trail gets overblown by thick snow and rock gully onto the glacier. You may well require using crampons and helmets from here on. As you reach the glaciated path, the gradient eases off. A short hike brings you to Mera La.

  • Set up a camp on an icy and windy spot overlooking Honku valley.
  • Prepare for the upcoming climb and indulge in a brief training session with your Sherpa guide.
  • AccommodationTented Camping
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude5320 m

Today, you’ll access the high camp at an altitude of 5,800 meters. Another short ascent over the Mera glacier takes you to the extreme camp. The final ascent of Mera Peak is made from the high camp. Embark on a moderately steep climb and ascend for around 4 hours to reach Mera High Camp. Upon arrival, you can see the breathtaking view of five of the six highest mountains in Nepal, including Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Mount Everest. Overnight in a camp.

  • Catch the pleasant view of some of the most famous mountain peaks, Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, and Cho Oyu.
  • Experience the camping adventure as you enjoy a warm lunch and dinner inside the camp.
  • AccommodationTented Camp
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude5750 M

Today is the most exciting day of the trip. You’ll make the final ascent to the Mera Peak summit. This exceptionally long day begins early. You’ll wake up around 2 am and enjoy your breakfast. Meanwhile, your staff will prepare the ropes for the climb. Prepare yourself and carry an ice axe and crampons before beginning the ascent. As you ascend, you will encounter a large, open glacier with numerous crevasses. Be careful and continue with your sluggish pace. The trail climbs steeply to the east of the left-hand ridge before heading right just below the summit. The last 50 meters to the summit is the hardest section of the climb. Use the fixed rope to climb to the top.

Once at the top, the magnificent sights of Everest, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Nuptse, and Chamlang Himal will reward yNext, you’llu’ll begin climbing down and access the same route back to Khare. After clearing the base camp, you’ll embark on a short trek east. Finally, a short descent along the rock moraines brings you to Kongme Dingma.

  • Enjoy the most exciting day of the trek as you leave the high camp and climb the Mera Peak summit.
  • Catch the majestic mountainous panorama, including Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, and Makalu.
  • AccommodationBasic Teahouse
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude5000 m

Leaving Kongme Dingma, the trail climbs along the rich Yak pastures, also known as Kharka. You may witness a few shepherd huts along the route. Enjoy the magnificent sights of Chamlang Himal and Baruntse Peak as you make your way toward Seto Pokhari. The trail begins to climb through snow moraine before reaching Seto Pokhari. Leaving Seto Pokhari, you'll embark on an upper flunk leading toward Amphu Lapcha Base Camp. Enjoy the majestic sight of Mount Everest as you continue climbing along the glacial lakes toward Hunku Pokhari. A short hike brings you to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp South.

  • Climb through the remote glacial pond of Seto Pokhari and Hunku Pokhari.
  • Catch the majestic sights of Mount Everest, Baruntse, and Chamlang Him
  • AccommodationBasic Tea House
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude5500 m

Leaving Amphu Lapcha Base Camp, you'll begin traversing the snowy path leading to Amphu Lapcha Pass. Next, you'll access the Upper Hunku Valley, always covered with snow. Almost five hours into the trek, you'll finally arrive at Amphu Lapcha Pass. Continue trekking along the glaciated path and head down to Imja Glacier. A few hours of descent along the Amphu Lapcha Glacier brings you to Imja Tsho Lake, just beside Imja Glacier. From here, you’ll be descending along the rocky moraine toward Island Peak Base Camp.

  • Climb the highest and remotest mountainous pass in the Everest Region, Amphu Lapcha Pass.
  • Enjoy trekking along with the beautiful glaciers of Lhotse Shar, Amphu Lapcha, and Imja.
  • AccommodationTented Camping
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude4950 m

Today is a rest day at Island Peak Base Camp. You can spend this day preparing for the upcoming climb. Summiting Island peak is relatively more straightforward than summiting Mera Peak. Enjoy a short hike around Imja Glacier and walk down to Imja Tsho Lake. Overnight in Island Peak Base Camp.

  • AccommodationTented Camping
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude4950 m

The most awaited day is here. The day begins early as you wake up at around 2 am. We have our breakfast and prepare to make the final summit. Carry the necessary gear and equipment for the climb. In the meantime, your Sherpa crew will prepare the ropes. The journey begins with a slow climb through snow and a few crevasses before arriving at the right side of the glaciated gully.

A steep climb takes you to the ridge, from where you can access the exposed ridge to the top. Follow a steep ridgeline leading towards the exposed traverse. The final ascent takes you along the vertical section using fixed rope and crampons. Once at the top, you can enjoy the majestic view of the surrounding mountains, including Amadablam, Lhotse, and Makalu. Embark on the descent and continue climbing back to Island Peak Base Camp. After clearing the camp, you'll continue trekking to the base camp or Chhukung village.

  • Summit is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal, Island Peak.
  • Catch the beautiful sights of Ama Dablam, Makalu, and Lhotse Shar glacier from the top.
  • AccommodationTented camping
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude4950 m

Retrace your path and continue climbing along the Chhukung glacier towards Dudh Koshi Valley. A short descent along the glaciated way brings you to the Sherpa village of Dingboche. From here, you’ll continue climbing down towards Imja Khola. Then, cross the river and continue climbing uphill towards Pangboche. A short descent overlooking the beautiful Ama Dablam peak brings you to Tengboche village via Debuche. Enjoy some time exploring the century-old Tengboche Monastery. From here, the trail drops downstream along the Dudh Koshi River towards Namche Bazaar.

Bid farewell to the beautiful view of Kongde Ri Peak as you climb down towards Monjo village. Exit Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo and continue climbing down to Lukla via Phakding village.

  • Enjoy trekking the famous Everest Base Camp Trail and exploring the beautiful Dudh Koshi Valley.
  • Visit the most popular Pangboche Monastery and Tengboche Monastery. Tengboche Monastery is a 100-year-old monastery in Tengboche that hosts the annual Tiji festival.
  • Explore Namche Bazaar, the largest village in the region, and enjoy the beautiful sight of Kongde Ri Peak.
  • AccommodationTea house
  • MealsB, L, D, Tea, Coffee
  • Altitude2850 m

Bid farewell to Lukla as you board the flight to Kathmandu. Enjoy a 30min long flight from Lukla to Kathmandu overlooking the pristine mountains and lush forested hills. Upon arrival, you'll drive to the hotel and enjoy your breakfast. Overnight in Kathmandu.

  • Experience a thrilling flight from Lukla to Kathmandu.
  • Enjoy the beautiful aerial tour of Kathmandu Valley.
  • Spend quality time at Kathmandu enjoying souvenir shopping, massage
  • AccommodationHotel
  • MealsBreakfast
  • Altitude1340 m

Today is the last day of the trip. Bid farewell to Kathmandu City as you embark on a flight back home. We’ll drive you to the airport approximately two hours before your flight.

  • MealsBreakfast

Mera and Island Peak climbing via Amphu Lapcha Pass itinerary: 

Details day to-day of Twin Mera and Island Peaks Climbing Itinerary with elevation, approx walking hours, and topography.
What's Included
  • Customize arrival and departure transfers on both domestic and international flights.
  • Standard hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on twin share BB as per the plan.
  • Welcome group dinner as listed in the Mera and Island peak climbing itinerary.
  • Half-day guided city tour with world heritage entrance fees as in the itinerary.
  • Kathmandu Lukla Kathmandu and airport tax as listed in the itinerary
  • All meals ( Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner) on the whole trek and climb
  • Accommodation at teahouse while trekking and tented camp while on the climbing duration
  • Both twin peaks ( Mera and Island) climbing royalty and government taxes
  • Climbing Clinic Course at the base camp of Twin peaks
  • All required Personal and Group Climbing gear: La Sportiva climbing boot, crampons, climbing rope, ice axe, Jumar, harness, the figure of eight, and Carabiner, along with required camping gear while on the climbing duration
  • Mountain Monarch gear - sleeping bag, finner fleece liner, down jacket, rain poncho, etc., for use during the trip.
  • Supplementary Oxygen with regular / Gamow Bag (A life-saving device in case of Acute Mountain Sickness) along with the comprehensive First Aid Kit.
  • Well-experienced Climbing guide with all his allowance and expenses.
  • Professional and experienced trekking group leader trained in Wilderness First Aid along with and trek support crew with proper gear and insurance.
  • Satellite Phone in case of emergency
  • Complimentary Trek Duffle bag and trekking map
  • Peak climbing certificates are issued from the respective body of the Nepal Government.
  • Makalu and Everest National park and all government taxes etc.
What's Excluded
  • Nepal entry Visa fees, Your travel insurance of any kind, International Airfare
  • All Drinks and main meals in cities.
  • Tips and Items of personal expenses like the hot shower, battery charge, telephone, beverage, and drinking water.

Dates & Availability

Mera and Island Peaks Climbing trip dates:

Mera and Island peak climbing via Amphu Lapcha pass cost and fixed and confirmed trip departure dates for 2023 and 2024 to join the group trip to the Himalayas in Nepal.

April Departure
     
Start DateStart DateApril 02, 2023End DateEnd DateApril 27, 2023StatusStatusGuaranteedPricePriceUS$3850
Start DateStart DateApril 16, 2023End DateEnd DateMay 11, 2023StatusStatusGuaranteedPricePriceUS$3850

Customer Reviews

  • L
    Leo Le Stum Boivin 5.0CanadaJune 07, 2022logo

    Life changing experience!

    This trip was a life-changing experience. Mountain Monarch was perfect, from the pickup at the airport to the drop-off at the journey's end. The owner Pradip was an excellent host at every level, from grating at my arrival to answering all my questions before, during, and after the trip. The guides and the porters during the trek were also excellent; I felt secure during all technical parts of the climbing. Ngimaand his brother was great guide and taught us a lot about Sherpa's culture since there are both from the region. I did Mera, Amphu Lapcha Pass, and Island Peak during this trek. The route for those peaks was a healthy design by Mountain Monarch, so much so that we didn't feel any altitude sickness. I highly recommend this local company for any trek in Nepal. Thank you again for this fantastic experience. Leo.

  • C
    Chin Ling Wong 5.0MalaysiaJanuary 06, 2019logo

    Memorable trip

    Four weeks trip with 23 days of trekking and climbing from Lukla to Mera (6419) and Island Peak (6189m) via Amphu Laptsa Pass (5845m). Amphu Laptsa Pass is graded D and the second hardest in the Himalayas region. It was a fantastic experience to land and took off at the world's most dangerous airport. The feeling is indescribable until you experience it. Twelve were in the group, plus five guides, 12 porters, and seven kitchen crew throughout the hike. We stayed in tents for 20 days and the last three days in the local tea houses. One of the highlights of our trip is no shower for 23 days, and the toilets are fundamental. The higher the altitude, the more basic the bathroom will be. We were amazed that we survived without any problems. The weather is freezing, and the daily temperature is below zero degrees Celsius. Waking up daily with snow/ice on the tent, sleeping bag, and beanie is no joke. Hail and snow are expected during our hiking period. Twenty-three days without connecting to the outside world is another good experience. No electricity was available, and I charged my watch and camera with a solar charger. Thank you, Mountain Monarch and the team, for this memorable trip.

  • G
    Graeme Mc Cormack 5.0United KingdomAugust 10, 2015logo

    High Standard of Service

    The whole trek and the way we were treated before and after the trek were excellent. A very HIGH STANDARD of SERVICE. Thanks, Mountain Monarch, for a great time in Nepal.

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